POND DESIGNA pond can be anything from a large pot on your deck with a few plants to an elaborate design with a waterfall, stream and wide, deep pool. There are also water features such as fountains, bubbling rocks, or vertical panels that trickle water into a small basin. For this article, we're going to talk about the “pool of water” variety.
Purpose
One of the first things you want to think about is whether you plan to have a pond teeming with fish, or if you'll just have a few for mosquito control. The more fish you have, the more filtration and water movement you'll need to help process fish waste and keep the water clear and healthy. Or perhaps you're more interested in a water garden full of various types of plants, which will be happier with a slower flow of water through the pond. Note: With a fish pond, we recommend that you go as big and deep as possible - once you have two or three pretty fish swimming around, you'll find you want two or three dozen swimming around!
See our Filtration article for info on various filter designs and media.
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| This formal shape fit nicely next to the deck. |
Many homeowners choose a relatively shallow, pre-formed plastic shell in a free-form shape. This is a good, inexpensive solution if you want to have a lush, full water garden, as the upper shelf is a perfect depth for many plants. Another option is to create a more formal geometric shape - square or rectangular ponds with a low, wide edge for seating are well suited to a modern setting. One of the most popular styles here in the NW is the circular, “natural” shape, edged with rocks and plants, and featuring a waterfall or attached stream. These are generally constructed with a rubber pond liner to help achieve the random shape of the pool and the cascades of the stream or waterfall.
Depth
Here again, you'll want to consider whether or not you'll have fish in your pond. Fish tend to prefer deeper water - at least 3 feet - while most plants prefer shallow water - less than 18”. Shelves or plant ledges are a popular solution, but they can give predators such as herons or raccoons a foothold in your pond. One solution is to have a wide, shallow area at one end for plants, then create a deep basin with steeply sloped sides for the fish. Another good option is a “bog” adjacent to the pond, filled with gravel and plants (this is also great for filtration). NOTE: Small children and deep water don't mix well! You may want to consider a “pondless” water feature, or have a sturdy fence with acrylic panels placed around the pond if you are not able to secure the area from young visitors. Check codes in your area to see what fencing requirements may be in place based on the depth of the water.
See our Predators article for the “dark side” of pond keeping.
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| Ripples across the pond add much-needed oxygen. |
Water movement is essential for adding oxygen and keeping the water clear and healthy. Water dropping into the pond from as little as 3” creates underwater turbulence (bubbles of oxygen!) and can create oxygen-boosting ripples across the pond surface. A creek between your waterfall and the pond boosts the amount of flowing water, and can be as short or long as space allows. The bonus of a waterfall is the soothing sound of falling water, which can mask an amazing amount of neighborhood noise.
Location
Generally, you'll want your pond close to the house or your primary outdoor recreation area. Here in the NW, where the outdoor season is relatively short, we recommend placing the focal point of the pond - usually a waterfall - where it can be seen from the house. If you have a completely flat yard, you'll want to think about how to integrate a waterfall into the yard without having it look like a random pile of rocks. Creating a berm around the entire pond is a nice way to use some of the dirt from the excavation, tie in the waterfall, and keep runoff from lawn treatments out of the pond. Tree cover is an important consideration as well - too much shade will keep most plants from blooming, while too much sun will cause algae to go crazy. Ideally you'll have early to late morning sun on the pond, some shade during the hottest part of the day, and sun again in the late afternoon. What you're shooting for is to have roughly 40% of the pond shaded for most of the day.
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| This would be considered a heavy plant load! |
Most ponds will have at least a few plants in the water and around the perimeter. Plants can help soften the edges of the pond, and add a natural element within the pond. Fish will often seek shade under the spreading leaves of a water lily, and will spawn in grasses or the roots of floating lettuce or hyacinth. The density of plant material can affect the health of your fish, as plants release oxygen during the day and take oxygen from the system at night. If you have a heavy plant load and numerous fish, you'll need to add additional oxygen.
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| These will need to be completely removed... |
With a construction plan in place, be ready for surprises. Once the digging starts, you may find boulders the size of a small car, big old-growth stumps, tree roots or other obstructions. The builder may have used “fill” – construction debris, loose rocks, pieces of concrete, etc. – to establish the grade of your property right where you plan to place your pond. That loose material won't compact enough to form a good base for the liner, and may not hold its shape over time. You may be able to create a sub-structure out of masonry blocks, or you may want to consider another location. As with any construction or remodeling project, allow some room in your budget for these, and other, surprises.
See our Construction article for more info on building your pond.
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